Top sees for a fee: Almeria’s 15th century cathedral is situated in a pretty plaza dotted with palm trees. It started out as a fortress, but within its uninviting exterior there is beautiful ...

The Moorish Alcazaba (Tues-Sun 9am-8.30pm, closes 6.30pm Nov-March) is worth a quick visit, as is the cathedral (Mon-Fri 10am-4.30pm, Sat 10am-1pm), in the old quarter, but otherwise the coast is ...

Riding the train from Madrid to Almeria, a remote southern province that has become the “latest thing” for travel aficionados in Spain, I gaze through the window at the haunted Tabernas Desert.