Claude Bosi? New Parisian bistro? ... French onion soup with a cheese top like a trampoline was too sweet, jammy, as though someone had tipped sugar in with the beef stock.

Only a year after chef Claude Bosi reopened Bibendum in 2016, the restaurant in South Kensington’s iconic Michelin building was awarded two Michelin stars, which it still holds today.

When Michelin-starred chef Claude Bosi first came here a quarter of a century ago he could barely get a sniff of a good British cheese. To the ambitious French chef, the choice seemed to be mostly ...