On a cold day last month, huddled over one of the circular cafe tables bolted to the side of sandwich shop Güero, a stranger told me the miso-ginger noodle soup we both happened to be enjoying tasted ...

This recipe uses a gammon joint that has been cooked ready for use ... Stir in the ham, allow to warm through in the hot soup and then serve, garnished with a few mint leaves.

This soup is traditionally made with stock from a ham bone but this version uses a small gammon joint which is far easier to get hold of these days. As modern gammons vary so much in flavour ...

Snake soup is called se gang (蛇羹 ... ordinary people – it is believed to boost the immune system and improve joint health. So shops began selling affordable versions of the dish.